Beauty standards through time (Uffizi Gallery)

Life in the Middle Ages was markedly different from the flourishing societies hundreds of years before. Disease, the dominance of Catholicism, and shorter lifespans all contributed to the beauty ideal of the young, naturally beautiful and rosy-cheeked virgin. Where women of today idolize celebrities in magazines, during the Medieval period it was the Virgin Mary who reigned supreme and was memorialized in paintings and sculpture.

Though vanity was frowned upon by the Church, many women used cosmetics and fragrances to disguise odors (as baths were only available to the very wealthy at the time), emphasize their healthy glow, and disguise complexion issues brought upon by poor diet, poor health, or the marks disease. Very white skin was the main ideal, which women would achieve with a flour-based paste or lead makeup. While white skin connoted lily-white purity, it also helped disguise a lot of skin imperfections (while unknowingly causing many of them).

The eyes would be left bare as “unnatural” makeup would be indulging in vanity — though evidence suggests that eyeliners were sneakily deployed to define the eye areas just a bit! Women also purchased powders made from ground herbs to tint their cheeks and lips with a deeper flush.

In terms of general beauty characteristics, again we hearken back to the ideal youthful beauty. A very high hairline and a slender, hairless body were considered attractive, as were thin limbs, high breasts, and smooth skin.

Following in the wake of the Middle Ages came the Renaissance era, or the “rebirth” of the region. This began in Florence, Italy and quickly spread to the rest of Europe.

During the Renaissance, art and beauty flourished once more, and it was not only considered in vogue but a necessity for women to look their best. The prolific art of the era, such as those drawn by the Renaissance masters portrays the beauty ideal of the time: a full, rounded figure, delicate features, smooth and pale skin, light-colored hair, a very high forehead, and flushed cheeks. Such features were associated with wealth and nobility, which equated to beauty.

While some women were depicted in a strict, uptight manner, others were drawn fully nude in a suggestive manner. This is likely due to the first type of paintings being commissioned for women in the upper tiers of society. These portraits were meant for the patron family and represented the upper class. The other type, on the other hand, representing a female ideal. The female body is typically in full display with long locks of hair.

Like during any other age, with a female ideal came the pressure for women to fit this ideal image. Since having a high forehead was considered beautiful, women whose foreheads were not high would resort to plucking their hairline to give the appearance of a higher forehead. Women also plucked their eyebrows and used lead pencils to darken their eyebrows.
Like in any other period in time, smooth skin was highly valued because it represented youthfulness and health. Women would use cold creams to moisturize their skin. These creams were scented oils made from olives. Unfortunately, there were also some harmful forms of skin moisturizers that contained mercury and sulfur, which were meant to be applied to the face.